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THE AEGEAN REGION
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The Aegean Coast:
The Aegean shores of Turkey are among the loveliest landscapes in the country. The magnificent coastline, lapped by the clear water of the Aegean Sea, abounds in vast and pristine beaches surrounded by olive groves, rocky crags and pine woods.
The Aegean shores of Turkey are among the loveliest landscapes in the country. The magnificent coastline, lapped by the clear water of the Aegean Sea, abounds in vast and pristine beaches surrounded by olive groves, rocky crags and pine woods. |
A highlight to any trip to Turkey is a visit to Efes (Ephesus) -once the commercial center of the ancient world.The city, whose wealth and patronage supported its splendid architectural program, was dedicated to the goddess Artemis. Her enormous temple, once considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, was rebuilt several times.
Ephesus, Izmir
Whether you prefer idyllic fishing harbours, popular holiday villages or remains of ancient civilizations attesting to more than 5,000 years of history, culture and mythology, this region offers a holiday with something for nature lovers, sun worshippers, photographers, sports enthusiasts, sailors and archeologists. Along the whole length of the coast, accommodations to suit every taste and price range can be found.
IZMIR HOMETOWN
Known in Turkish as "Beautiful Izmir", the city lies at the head of a long, narrow gulf traversed by ships and yachts. The climate is mild and in the summer the constant, refreshing sea breezes temper the sun's heat. Behind the palm-lined promenades and avenues, which follow the shoreline, the city, in horizontal terraces, gently ascends the slopes of the surrounding mountains. Izmir is the third largest city in Turkey and its port is second only to Istanbul. A cosmopolitan and lively city all year round, Izmir is especially vibrant during the international Arts Festival (June/July) and the International Fair (August/September).
The original city was established in the third millennium B.C. (at present day Bayrakli), when it shared with Troy the most advanced culture in Western Anatolia. By 1500 B.C. it had fallen under the influence of the Central Anatolian Hittite Empire. In the first millenium B.C. Izmir, then known as Smyrna, ranked as one of the most important cities of the Ionian Federation. During this period, one of the city's most brilliant, Homer is believed to have resided here. The Lydian conquest of the city, around 600 B.C., brought this era to an end, and Izmir remained little more than a village throughout the Lydian and subsequent sixth-century B.C. Persian rule. In the fourth century B.C. a new city was built on the slopes of Mt. Pagos (Kadifekale) during the reign of Alexander the Great. Izmir's Roman period, beginning in the first century B.C., was its second great era. Byzantine rule followed in the fourth century and lasted until the Seljuk conquest in the 11th century. In 1415, under Sultan Mehmet Celebi, Izmir became part of the Ottoman Empire.
PLACES OF INTEREST MUSEUMS
The Archaeological Museum, near Konak Square, houses a superb collection of antiquities including the statues of Poseidon and Demeter which, in ancient times, stood in the Agora. (Closed on Mondays)
Next to the Archaeology Museum, the Ethnography Museum contains folkloric artifacts, which include a fine collection of Bergama and Gordes carpets, traditional costumes and camel bridles. (Closed on Mondays).
The Ataturk Museum is situated on Ataturk Caddesi in an old Izmir house used by the founder of the Turkish Republic. It exhibits photographs of the leader as well as some of his personal effects. (Closed on Mondays)
The Fine Arts Museum, located in Konak, showcases the works of famous Turkish painters. (Closed on Mondays)
The Seljuk Yasar Art Museum is a private museum on Cumhuriyet Bulvari with a collection of 20th-century Turkish art. (Closed on Sundays)
The Natural History Museum in Bornova serves as a natural reserve of the Aegean Region landscapes' historical preservation. (Closed on Sundays)
The Odemis Archeological Museum about 60 km east of Izmir, displays regional artifacts. (Closed on weekends).
The Tire Archaeological Museum is about 50 km east of Izmir. (Closed on weekends)
HISTORICAL SITES AND MONUMENTS
The excavations at Bayrakli have unearthed a temple dedicated to Athena and the wall of the Ionian city which flourished there between the seventh and fifth centuries B.C. Pottery dating back to the third millennium B.C. has also been uncovered.
On Kadifekale (Mt. Pagos) stands the impressive ruins of a castle, built by Lysimachus in the reign of Alexander the Great, which still dominates Izmir today. The castle offers an excellent vantage point to enjoy a magnificent view of the Gulf of Izmir.
The Agora, or marketplace, in the Namazgah Quarter was originally constructed during the rule of Alexander the Great. What remains today, however, dates from a rebuilding under Marcus Aurelius after a devastating earthquake in 178 A.D.
The Sirinyer and Yesildere Aqueducts, two examples of Roman engineering spanning the Meles River, supplied Izmir's water throughout the Byzantine and Ottoman eras.
The Saint Polycarp Church is the oldest church in Izmir and symbolizes the Seven Churches of the Apocalypse. Saint Polycarp was martyred at age 86 in A.D. 155 at Kadifkale by the Romans. According to tradition, when they tried to burn him at the stake the flames wouldn't touch him so they finally stabbed him to death. The church was reconstructed in 1620.
The Kizlaragasi Han (inn), a fine example of 18th-century Ottoman architecture of the period, is being restored to its former glory.
The symbol of Izmir, the Saat Kulesi, or Clock Tower, stands in the heart of the city at Konak Square. A gift from Sultan Abdulhamid, it was built in 1901 in an elaborately decorated late Ottoman style.
MOSQUES
Hisar Mosque is the largest and oldest in Izmir. Built in the 16th century, and restored in the 19th century, it has a delightful interior with an interesting mimber (pulpit) and mihrab (niche showing the direction to Mecca).
Izmir's other mosques are Salepcioglu (20th-century), Sadirvan (17th-century with 19th-century restorations) and Kemeralti (17th-century).
All are situated close to the Kemeralti Quarter.
PARKS
Kulturpark, the principle park of the city, offers a variety of activities. It is the site for the International Izmir Fair and contains an amusement park, zoo, restaurant and quiet gardens.
Olof Palme Park, situated in Karsiyaka, is a relaxing place to explore. It also boasts sports facilities. Karsiyaka is ancient Cordelia.
Next door, the Adnan Saygun Park, a center for artistic activities, features an amphitheatre for concerts and theatrical productions, as well as the Open-Air Museum Park, which has statues scattered throughout the grounds.
Insan Haklari (Human Rights) Park exhibits lovely modern statues, including the huge Flying Dolphins Monument.
Muammer Aksoy Park is a lovely seaside park with a nice view of Izmir Bay. Turgut Ozal Recreation Park, located in Bayrakli, offers a number of recreational and sports activities
ART, CULTURE AND ENTERTAINMENT
For many years Izmir has enjoyed a reputation as a cosmopolitan city of culture. The Izmir Cultural Center hosts opera and ballet performances as well as musical concerts. The city is home to the Aegean Philharmonic Orchestra and boasts a thriving theatrical community. During the annual Izmir International Festival, international and local artists perform at various venues in the city and surrounding area, including the theatre at Ephesus. Take a horse-drawn carriage along the promenade during the day and afterwards spend the evening in the lively atmosphere of the bars and cafes around Kordonboyu, Passport Pier and Karsiyaka.
SHOPPING
In the streets of the Kemeralti Market area, it is possible to find fascinating antiques, both fine and costume jewelry, a great variety of clothing, and the dried figs and raisins for which Izmir is famous. The fish restaurants in this colorful area serve up the local specialities of tranca and cipura, two types of sea bream. The most modern and elegant shops are on the Kordon Promenades in Alsancak and Karsiyaka and on Cumhuriyet Avenue and in Passport.
PLACES OUTSIDE IZMIR
Balcova, on the road to Cesme, is one of Turkey's largest thermal spas, with excellent facilities for guests.
Camalti, 15 km west of Karsiyaka, is an area of coastal marshes and salt fields that is preserved as an important bird sanctuary the - Izmir Bird Paradise. Enthusiasts can spot many species, including flamingoes and pelicans.
The Yamanlar Camligi, a pine forest near the lovely Lake Karagol 40 km northeast of Karsiyaka, is a popular picnic spot that also offers restaurants and a swimming pool.
A Hittite bas-relief is carved into the rock at Kemalpasa (20 km from Izmir) in the Karabel Pass.
Belkahve, the highest point above Izmir, overlooks the Gulf of Izmir and is a relaxing place to enjoy a cup of Turkish coffee. Formerly a favorite haunt of Ataturk's, it is now the site of the country's largest statue in his honor. In the village of Birgi is the Cakir Aga Mansion, a fine example of traditional Turkish architecture.
The cities of the Seven Churches of the Apocalypse, mentioned by St. John in the Book of Revelation, are all found in Turkey: Efes (Ephesus), Izmir (Smyrna), Bergama (Pergamum), Akhisar (Thyatira), Sart (Sardis), Alasehir (Philadelphia), and Eskihisar (Laodicea). Tours of one to four days can be arranged to see several or all of the churches.
The Cesme Peninsula, lapped by the waters of the Aegean Sea, lies west of Izmir. The name "Cesme" meaning fountain, refers to the many springs found in the area during the 18th and 19th centuries. It is one of Turkey's most beautiful coastal stretches framed by clear blue sea, with aniseed, sesame and artichoke fields dotted by fig and gum trees. In the unspoiled bays you can swim in absolute peace. Visitors will find excellent holiday accommodation, restaurants, and sports and entertainment facilities. A 14th-century Genoese fortress, restored and enlarged by the Ottomans in the 16th century, dominates the small port of Cesme 80 km from Izmir. Today the town is a popular holiday resort with excellent accommodations and restaurants. The 16th-century caravanserai near the fortress, built by Suleyman the Magnificent, has been converted into a hotel, while the 19th-century Church of Hagios Haralambos has been restored as the Emir Caka Art Gallery. Thermal baths offer a health-oriented escape from modern life. Excellent shopping for the finest quality carpets and leather goods, as well as souvenir items is also possible. At night, a lively, atmosphere pervades the town, especially in the restaurants, cafes, bars and discos along the promenade. Cesme hosts an annual International Song Contest in the summer. Yachts can be chartered to explore the peninsula's splendid coastline. Also, ferries make the run from Cesme to Venice on a weekly basis.
The very popular holiday center of Ilica boasts an excellent white sandy beach and the outstanding facilities of the Altin Yunus Marina and Holiday Complex. The bay here is ideal for water sports, especially windsurfing and sailing. The thermal baths around Ilica are very popular, the best located on Sifne Bay. Pasa Limani (Pasha Harbor) also has a campsite which offers comfortable facilities. In Ilica Bay, the colorful International Cakabey Optimist Yacht Race is held every July.
Ildiri, a quiet seaside village 20 km northeast of Cesme was ancient Erythrai. Those who climb up to the Acropolis at dusk are rewarded with a beautiful sunset over the bay and islands. Nearby Gerence Gulf is a pristine inlet northeast of the Cesme Peninsula which can be reached by boat or car. The natural surroundings are relaxing while the bay becons for water sports. In Dalyan, a fishing village built on a sheltered deep water inlet just north of Cesme some of the region's best fish restaurants border the quay of the lively marina.
Tourists are attracted by the variety of accommodations at Ciftlik and by a long, sandy beach (Pirlanta Plaj), just outside the town to the southwest. Camping facilities are available to the south, and nearby is one of the area's best beaches, the Altinkum Plaj (Golden Sand Beach).
Windmills, some of which have been converted into attractive restaurants, dot the hill above Alacati, a delightful and typical Aegean town. Alacati lies to the south inland from Ilica and the coast. A couple kilometers to the south is a good beach. Many lovely bays along the coast southeast of the town are accessible only by boat, ensuring peaceful and relaxing anchorage in this popular sailing region.
Known in ancient times as Clazomenae, Urla Iskelesi offers a marina as well as plentiful accommodations in all price ranges. Restaurants on the top of Guvendik hill afford a marvelous view of the bay and its islands.
The prosperous little fishing village of Cesmealti is notable for its rustic yet excellent seafood restaurants.
As you drive along the panoramic coastal road of Karaburun Peninsula you pass several peaceful bays and quaint fishing villages: Balikliova, Mordogan and Karaburun among others. At Karaburun, pleasant hotels, tea gardens and seafood restaurants sit between the beautiful mountain backdrop and the clear, clean water. From Manastir Mountain, you can enjoy an unforgettable view of the Karaburun coast, the Foca coastline opposite, and the entrance to the Gulf of Izmir. On the southern side of the Cesme Peninsula, near the town of Seferihisar, is the small picturesque marina of Sigacik. This important yachting center is surrounded by fortifications dating from the Genoese period and is a good point from which to visit the Temple of Dionysus at the ancient site of Teos, as well as lovely Akkum beach.
South of Akkum, the New Neptune Holiday Village offers windsurfing and diving schools and it is the best area for these sports. Also in the Torbali area, between the villages of Ozbeykoy and Yenikoy lie the ruins of an ancient metropolis.
Gumuldur features excellent tourist facilities beautiful beaches, restaurants and hotels. Near Ahmetbeyli (Claros) to the east, stands the Apollo Temple and the remains of a colossal statue of the god. Here you can also enjoy a good fish dinner or a swim at the town's wide beach. A winding panoramic coastal road leads from Ahmetbeyli south to Pamucak beach.
THE NORTH AEGEAN
The ancient Phocaea, Foca, once formed part of the Ionian Federation. Today it is a modem lively holiday resort on two deep bays. The pleasant accommodations, clean beaches and inviting restaurants make it an attractive vacation spot. Those seeking the perfect tan can find it on the natural rock terraces of the Siren Islands.
Bergama (Pergamum or Pergamon), once a great center of culture, survives as one of Turkey's finest archaeological sites. In the Acropolis, above the modern town, are the remains of the celebrated library, impressive theatre, the temples of Trajan and Dionysus, the monumental altar of Zeus, the sanctuary of Demeter, a three terraced gymnasium and the Agora. The Asclepion, located to the southwest of the lower city, was a sanctuary dedicated to the god of health, Asclepics. In town is the Archaeological and Ethnographical Museum and nearby is the site of a temple dedicated to Serapis, the god of the lower world who was also worshiped in Egypt as Osiris. The temple was subsequently converted by the Byzantines into a basilica.
Dikili, frequented by cruise ships bringing visitors to Pergamon, is Bergama's harbor town set in a relaxing atmosphere with many pleasant restaurants lining the Kordon Promenade. Stop at the little port of Candarli, the ancient Pitane, to see the Genoese fortress there, one of the best preserved in Turkey.
Ayvalik is a charming port, situated amid beautiful pine woods. Nearby, the Seytan Sofrasi (Devil's Table) offers a splendid panorama of the archipelago along the Gulf of Ayvalik and the little island of Alibey (Cunda), where there are pleasant seafood restaurants. Sarimsakli Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches in the area.
The Gulf of Edremit, also known as the Olive Riveria, has a number of charming seaside resorts: Kucukkuyu, Altinoluk, Akcay (a thermal center with numerous springs), Edremit, and Oren. All boast beautiful beaches, ringing the Gulf of Edremit and presenting visitors a wide choice of hotels and guest houses with views of the sea. Here, too, is situated the beautiful Kaz Dagi National Park, with magnificent landscapes, restful green areas and several hot springs. According to mythology it was in this area that the world's first beauty contest was held. Under the shadow of Kaz Dagi (Mt. Ida, 1774 meters) in Pinarbasi, west of Akcay, Paris gave the golden apple to Aphrodite in the famous "Judgement of Paris."
BEHRAMKALE (ASSOS)
Assos, the famous teaching center of antiquity is 87 km south of Canakkale in Ayvacik County. Aristotle, Plato's most famous student, was invited to Assos and spent more than three years living and teaching there. He married the niece of Hermeia, founded a school of philosophy and conducted his early exploratory work in zoology, biology and botany.
The acropolis of Assos (Behramkale) is 238 meters above sea level. The Temple of Athena was constructed on this site in the 6th century B.C. This Doric temple is being restored to its former glory and role as guardian of the Biga Peninsula and Gulf of Edremit. Linger to see the moonlight scattered through the temple ruins, or rise early for the gently awakening dawn over the acropolis. From the top, you can take in the magnificent vista of the Gulf of Edremit and appreciate why this heavenly location was chosen. On the terraces descending to the sea are agoras, a gymnasium and a theatre. From the northern corner of the acropolis, you can see a mosque, bridge and a fortress, all built in the 14th century by the Ottoman Sultan Murat I. Down below lies a tiny, idyllic ancient harbor. Assos has gained the reputation of being the center of the Turkish art community with it's lively bohemian atmosphere. This may be the trip you will remember for years to come. Twenty-five km west of Behramkale, in the village of Gulpinar is the ancient city of Chryse where the 2nd century B.C. temple of Apollon Smintheus is located. Babakale, a scenic village of houses terraced on a cliff which drops to the sea is 15 km west of Gulpinar on an unmarked road that follows the jagged coastline.
CANAKKALE
The city of Canakkale lies at the narrow, 1,200 meter entrance to the Canakkale Strait (the Dardanelles) that connects the Sea of Marmara and the Aegean. Passenger and car ferries run daily between Canakkale on the Asian side and Eceabat and Kilitbahir on the European side. Yachts navigating the straits stop at the well-equipped Canakkale Marina. Hotels, restaurants and cafes along the promenade offer a place to enjoy the traffic in the harbor, as well as a view of the Kilitbahir Fortress and the Canakkale Archaeological Museum.
In 1451, Sultan Mehmet II, later the conqueror of Istanbul, built one fortress on the European side of the Canakkale Strait at Kilitbahir and one on the opposite shore at Cimenlik to control the passage of ships through the strait. Today the Cimenlik fortress serves as a military museum dedicated to the World War I Battle of Canakkale.
Gelibolu Peninsula Historical National Park was established to honor the 500,000 soldiers who gave their lives on Gelibolu, also known as Gallipoli. In 1915, Mustafa Kemal, commander of the Turkish army, led a successful campaign to drive out allied powers from the area. The park includes memorials, monuments, cemeteries amid the natural beauty of the Ariburnu Cliffs and Tuz Golu (Salt Lake). The beauty of the green hills, sandy beaches and blue waters provides an honorable resting place for the soldiers, who bravely fought and died in the historic battle. You cannot help but sense the heart of the Turkish nation in the patriotic spirit of the place.
Homer immortalized Truva (Troy) in his stories of King Priam, Hector, Paris and the beautiful Helen. Archaeological excavations have revealed nine separate periods of settlement including ruins of city walls, house foundations, a temple and a theatre. A symbolic wooden Trojan horse commemorates the legendary war. The ancient harbor of Alexandria-Troas was built in the 3rd century B.C. St. Paul passed through twice, and then on his third missionary journey, he continued on to Assos. As you approach Bozcaada Island, the Venetian castle commands your attention. Then your eyes are drawn to the glistening white houses, restaurants and cafes which line the promenade. Wine seems as plentiful as water on this island, the consequence many vineyards and wine cellars. There are good, sandy beaches at Ayazma, Poyraz and Igdelik.
The largest of the Turkish islands, Gokceada is punctuated with pristine bays. Its hills, covered with the greens of pine and olive trees, are dotted with sacred springs and monasteries. Regularly scheduled ferry boats make the trip from Canakkale and Kabatepe. In August, islanders and tourists gather for colorful local fairs.
THE AEGEAN INTERIOR
Inland from the Aegean Sea, the fertile soil has endured the passage of many important early civilizations. Today the remains of these cultures can still be seen in the countryside, as well as in the cities, towns and villages. The more recent legacy of Ottoman rule is apparent in the well-preserved, traditional domestic Turkish architecture and Ottoman Mosques. Resorts have been built around the region's hot springs, beckoning those seeking their pleasurable and beneficial effects.
MANISA
The attractive Aegean city of Manisa preserves several splendid examples of Seljuk and Ottoman architecture. Endowed by Ayse Sultana, mother of Suleyman the Magnificent, the Sultan Mosque was built early in the 16th century. Every year in April, on the grounds of the mosque, a festival is held celebrating Mesir Macunu, a sticky elixir that reputedly cured the sultan's ailing mother. The 16th-century Muradiye Mosque was designed by the great architect Sinan.
The adjacent medrese, or theological college, houses the Archaeological Museum. The annual Harvest Festival begins in September when the fruits of the vineyards are harvested amid great celebration. The region's numerous vineyards produce grapes that are then dried for export. South of the city lies the Sipil Dagi National Park, home of the famous "crying rock" of Niobe. If you travel to the northeast you come to Gordes, a pleasant town particularly known for its fine carpets.
The ruins of ancient Sart (Sardis), once the capital of the Lydian realm of Croesus, lie on the Sart Cayi (Pactole River) plain. The world's first coins were minted here. The Temple of Artemis and a restored gymnasium testify to the city's past splendor, as does the important third century A.D. synagogue. On the south side of Sardis, Mt. Boz (ancient Mt. Tmolus) is good for hiking and other mountain sports.
USAK
Historically, Usak was an important carpet weaving center, a role it continues to play today. Visitors find the Archaeology Museum informative and interesting. The Kaftanci House Museum, along with the Ataturk Ethnography Museum, displays plays wonderful Usak carpets and kilims in Ataturk's former residence.
The 226-meter high Afyon citadel dates back to 1350 B.C. and is ascended by means of stairs carved out of rock. It was used by Hittites and Phrygians. There are remains of a temple dedicated to the goddess Cybele near the citadel. The Archaeological Museum and the War of Independence Memorial underline Afyon's place in history. Monumental bas-reliefs, a legacy of the Phrygian Kingdom, are carved into rock faces on hills north of the city. Aslantas is the largest. At Aslankaya, lion reliefs decorate the rock outcroppings.
The Acik Hava Muzesi (Open-Air Museum) is near the north entrance of the town of Dinar, 100 km south of Afyon. This is the site of the mythical music contest between Apollo and Marsyas (Pan). Byzantine and Roman gravestones, inscriptions and statues can be seen here.
KUTAHYA
Kutahya is one of the oldest Turkish cities, with many old Turkish traditions still being practiced today. It is home to important Ottoman architectural monuments, including a castle, mosques, medreses, baths, complexes, mausoleums, and mansions. One of the finest mosques is the 14th century Ulu Mosque. Kutahya Castle offers a wonderful, panoramic view of the old town on the western side of the city. The Kutahya Archaeology Museum was a medrese in the 14th century that now displays ethnographia, Roman and Byzantine relics, and Iznik and Kutahya tiles from Ottoman times. Lajos Kossuth, the 19th century Hungarian hero, lived with his family in what is now the Kossuth House Museum, where relics and documents related to Kossuth are exhibited.
The kilns of Kutahya produced exquisite ceramics since the 16th and 17th centuries. You can visit the workshops where skilled artisans produce tiles, plates and bowls renowned for their cobalt blue patterns on a milky white background.
Southwest of Kutahya is the Roman town of Cavdarhisar (Aizanoi) where a theater, stadium and the Temple of Zeus remain. In the same direction, Murat Mountain offers camping facilities and hot springs amid delightful scenery. Near Dumlupinar are the Baskomutan National Park and the War of Independence memorials.
THE SOUTH AEGEAN
A visit to Efes (Ephesus), once the commercial center of the ancient world, is a highlight of any visit to Turkey. The city, whose wealth and patronage supported its splendid architectural program, was dedicated to the goddess Artemis. Her enormous temple, once considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and rebuilt several times, in its latest form dates from the third century B.C. The ruins also include a theater, gymnasium, agora and baths, as well as the Library of Celsus.
The nearby town of Seljuk is dominated by a Byzantine citadel which stands close to the 6th-century basilica of St. John, supposedly built on the site of the apostle's tomb. The 14th-century Isa Bey Mosque, next to the basilica is accessed through its typical Seljuk portal. The Archaeological Museum houses an impressive collection of statues and other finds recovered during the excavations at Ephesus. The nearby Turkish Bath Museum, in a 16th century building, shows Turkish life at the hamam (bath). The Ephesus International Festival of Culture and Tourism is held annually in May.
Tradition has it that, after the death of Christ, John brought the Virgin Mary to Ephesus where she is said to have spent her last days in a small house (Meryemana Evi) built for her on Bulbuldagi (Mt. Koressos). Now a place of pilgrimage for Roman Catholics and a popular attraction for everyone, the house has received the official sanction of the Vatican, and a commemoration ceremony is held every year on August 15th. Near Seljuk is a TCDD Open-air Steam Locomotives Museum displaying historic train cars in Camlik. Sirince is 9 km east of Seljuk, known for its traditional 19th-century homes, some of which have been converted into guest houses. Wine is produced in this small hillside Turkish village, which itself resembles an open-air museum. Eighteen km from Seljuk are wine houses, for tasting the wines.
AYDIN
The province's capital, also called Aydin, enjoys a widespread reputation for its fine figs. Known as Tralleis in ancient times, it was at the center of a celebrated school of sculpture. Today's remains date from the second century A.D. After 1186 the town came under Seljuk rule. The local museum displays artifacts from the different periods of its history.
Back along the coast, Kusadasior Bird island is a lovely port built along the shores of a glittering bay. The terraced town overlooks the most beautiful inlet of the Aegean, seemingly created purely for the delight of the holiday-maker. Be sure to visit the popular Kus shopping center in the Kaleici quarter, where there is also all nightly entertainment. A large, modern marina facilitates life for visiting yachters. The Tusan-Kustur Beach, north of Kusadasi is one of the cleanest beaches. twenty-three km south of Kusdasi is the charming resort town of Guzelcamli. West of Guzelcamli and 30 km from Kusadasi, is the Dilek Peninsula National Park, a must for those with the time. Here, amidst incredibly beautiful surroundings, are some of the most wonderful vistas and some of the rarest wild animals in Turkey, including the Anatolian cheetah and some of the last wild horses. The park is a wildlife preserve, a haven for many species of animals and birds.
The exquisite Menderes River valley, known in the West as the Meander, has been the cradle of many civilizations. Bordered by pine, olive and oleander trees, the magnificent Lake Camici (Bafa) is a lovely place for a stop. Tourists can choose between guest-houses or campsites. To the east of the lake rise the five peaks of the Besparmak Mountains (Latmos). The Iconoclastic priests who came here from Constantinople to live, built monasteries, churches, and chapels around the base of the mountains and on the lake's islands. The ruins of the ancient city of Heraklia lie close to the lake, while the remains of Alinda are found on the eastern slopes of the Besparmak Mountains. The valley has witnessed the rise and fall of several great cities, notably Priene, Miletus, Didyma, Aphrodisias, and Hierapolis. This peaceful national reserve is an excellent place for bird-watchers, hikers, nature-lovers and photographers.
Gullubahce (Priene) was one of the busiest ports of the Ionian Federation. The grid-like system of streets introduced in the 4th century B.C. by Hippodamos of Miletos is a superb example of early town planning.
Milet (Miletos), like Priene, was a great Ionian port and the birthplace of several philosophers and sages. The theater justifies a visit as do the Archeology Museum and the well preserved ruins of the Faustina baths.
Although Didim (Didyma) can only boast a single monument, it is nevertheless a marvelous site. The Temple of Apollo was one of antiquity's most sacred places. Many times looted and burned, the colossal sanctuary still impresses with its elegant beauty surrounded by a double-colonnaded portico. Not far from the archeological site is the beautiful beach of Altinkum with its many guest houses. Akbuk is another resort in the region with inviting beach hotels.
Although the history of Geyre(Aphrodisias) stretches farther back in time, this city dedicated to Aphrodite, the goddess of love and fertility, rose to prominence in the first century B.C. Some of the richest treasures of ancient times were uncovered in the excavations here. The public buildings are handsomely adorned with marble that was carved with the skill that produced remarkable temples, monuments, baths, a theater and a magnificent stadium. The reputation of the city's craftsmen for the exquisite finesse of their sculpting spread through the civilized world, and Aphrodisias became the center of the greatest sculpting school of antiquity. Many of its marvelous works of art are now housed in the local museum. The theater and bouleuterion are among the city's best-preserved ruins.
About 35 km east of Aydin is Sultanhisar, host to an Art and Culture Festival every spring. Nearby, in the quiet of the olive trees, are the ruins of ancient Nysa, famous in the 2nd century A.D. as an educational center.
DENIZLI
Nestled against high mountains near the Buyuk Menderes (Meander) River is Denizli surrounded by the natural beauty of a lush valley, the area is also rich in culture and history. The Luvians were the first inhabitants, followed centuries later by the Hittites. For centuries, the fertile plain nourished Phrygians, Lydians, Persians, Macedonians, Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks, and Ottomans. Modern Denizli is a city of wide streets, parks and hotels. The Ataturk Ethnography Museum 'in the city center displays folk art and ethnic artifacts.
While shopping in the Kaleici Casisi, look for souvenirs of copper, jewelry, towels and silk blouses. You can choose among Camlik, Incilipinar or Gokpinar Parks for relaxation, a picnic, or simply a walk in the shade of pine trees. The fresh water springs and thermal baths attract many visitors.
A magical and spectacular natural site, unique in the world, Pamukkale (Hierapolis) is a fairyland of dazzling white, calcified castles. Thermal spring waters laden with calcareous salts running off the plateau's edge have created this fantastic formation of stalactites, cataracts and basins. The hot springs have been used since Roman times for their therapeutic powers. Both the thermal center with its motels and thermal pools, and the ruins of the ancient city of Hierapolis, are situated on the plateau. The 2nd century Roman theater seats 25,000. Northwest of Pamukkale is the thermal center of Karahayit, known for the high iron content of its water. Honaz Dagi National Park is 20 km east of Denizli, near the town of Honaz. Mt. Honaz is one of the most beautiful and highest peaks (2528 m) in the Aegean region, covered with a gorgeous alpine forest. On the northern slope is the ancient site of Colossae, but with very few remains.
MUGLA
The province of Mugla includes the famous resort cities of Bodrum, Marmaris, Datca, Koycegiz and Fethiye. Beautiful resorts, comfortable hotels and motels, cozy guest houses, impressive ruins of past civilizations and magnificent landscapes offer vacationers plenty to choose from. Mugla, the province's capital, lies inland and is known for its traditional local architecture. In the village of Ozluce,a veritable open-air museum east of Mugla, is Turolian Park, where you can find very ancient fossils.
Bodrum, known in ancient times as Halicarnassus, was the birthplace of Heredotus and the site of the Tomb of King Mausolus (4th century B.C.), one of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world.
An impressive medieval castle built by the Knights of Rhodes guards the entrance to Bodrum's dazzling blue bay, where the Aegean and the Mediterranean Seas meet. This Bodrum Castle, or Castle of St. Peter overlooking the harbor is a fine example of 15th-century crusader architecture. It has been converted into the Museum of Underwater Archeology, displaying artifacts dating as far back as the Bronze Age. Vases from the 8th and 9th centuries B.C. are also part of the collection. The stunning panoramic view from nearby Goktepe is often photographed by visitors to the Museum's 2nd century theater. There is also a hamam (Turkish bath) museum in Bodrum dating from the early 1900's.
The town's charm is well-known, attracting a wide variety of international vacationers who stroll along its long, palm-lined waterfront, while elegant yachts crowd the marina.
Not far from town, you can swim in absolutely clear, tideless, warm seas. Divers will want to explore the numerous reefs, caves and majestic rock formations. The waters offer up multicolored sponges of all shapes and sizes, along with octopi and an immense variety of other aquatic life.
Although the reputation of Bodrum's boat yards dates back to ancient times, today craftsmen still build the traditional yachts: the tirhandil with a pointed bow and stern, and the broad beamed, rounded stern gulette. The latter are frequently used for excursions and pleasure trips, as well as in the annual October Bodrum Cup Race.
The yearly throng of visitors has encouraged small entrepreneurs to make shopping in Bodrum a delight. Leather goods of all kinds, natural sponges and the local blue glass beads are among the bargains to be found in the friendly little shops along the narrow, white- walled streets. Charming boutiques offer kilims, carpets, sandals and embroidery as well as original fashions in soft cotton.
Bodrum has gained the reputation of being a center of the Turkish art community with its lively, friendly and Bohemian atmosphere and many small galleries. This community has encouraged an informal daytime lifestyle and an exciting nightlife. Early evenings in Bodrum are for savoring fresh seafood and other Aegean specialties of the many restaurants.
Afterwards, night clubs (some with cabaret) and superb discos keep you going until dawn. The beautiful Bodrum Peninsula suits holiday makers interested in a subdued and relaxing atmosphere. Enchanting villages, with guest houses and small hotels on quiet bays, dot the peninsula. On the southern coast, Bardakci, Gumbet, Bitez, Aktur, Ortakent Yalisi, Karaincir, Bagla and Akyarlar have fine, sandy beaches (Bitez, Ortakent and Aktur are blue-flag beaches). Campers and windsurfers enjoy Gumbet, and at Bitez colorful sailboards weave skillfully among the yachts in the bay. On shore you can enjoy quiet walks through the orange and tangerine groves bordering the beach. Ortakent has one of the longest stretches of sandy beach in the area and offers an ideal place for relaxing in solitude. One of the most beautiful beaches on the Bodrum peninsula is Karaincir, ideal for active days by the sea and relaxed, leisurely evenings with local villagers. Finally, Akyarlar enjoys a well-deserved reputation for the fine, powdery sands of its beach.
Turgutreis, Gumusluk and Yalikavak, all with excellent beaches, lie on the western side of the peninsula and are ideal for swimming, sunbathing and water sports. Gumusluk Beach is blue-flag rated. Turgutreis was named for the, great Turkish admiral who was born there. In the ancient port of Myndos (Gumusluk) you can easily make many friends with the hospitable and outgoing local population. In Yalikavak, white washed houses with cascading bougainvillaea line narrow streets. Small cafes and the occasional windmill create a picturesque setting. Though you can see the north coast of the peninsula and Torba, Turkbuku, Golkoy and Gundogan by road, it is even better to hire a boat and crew to explore the quiet coves, citrus groves and wooded islands. Little windmills, still providing the energy to grind grain crown, hills covered with olive trees. Torba, a modem village with holiday villas and a nice marina is located eight km north of Bodrum. Golkoy and Turkbuku are small, simple fishing villages with a handful of taverns overlooking a lovely bay.
Half an hour from Bodrum by boat, you can bathe in the grotto at Karaada where the warm mineral waters flowing out of the rocks are believed to enhance the complexion.
The deep, translucent waters of the Gulf of Gokova, off the southern shore of the Bodrum peninsula vary in color from the darkest blue to the palest turquoise, while the coastline is covered in every hue of green. In the evening, the sea reflects the mountains silhouetted against the setting sun, while it shimmers with phosphorescence at night. You can take a yacht tour or hire a boat from Bodrum for tour of the gulf lasting from two days to a week.
The Gulf of Gulluk, and harbor of the same name, lie north of the Bodrum peninsula on the Aegean. The mythological Dolphin Boy is said to have been born a little farther to the north at Kiyikislacik (lassos). South of Gulluk, Varvil, ancient Bargilya, sits at the end of a deep narrow inlet surrounded by olive-covered hillsides.
Inland from Gulluk is Milas (Mylasa) known for its beautiful carpets, a century-old tradition. The weavers rarely mind a visitor watching them at work. Plenty of old Turkish houses with carved timbers and latticed windows provide examples of the architectural style. At Gumuskesen, west of the city is a memorial tomb, thought to be a small replica of the famous Halicarnassus Mausoleum.
The ancients built Labranda, a sanctuary dedicated to Zeus, high in the mountains. Today tourists have rediscovered this mountain retreat, escaping to its exhilarating air and breathtaking scenery.
Situated on a bay, backed by rugged pine-clad mountains, Marmaris is one of the most attractive maritime parklands, ideal for water sports and sailing. It makes an excellent starting point for the "Blue Voyage" tour of the Aegean coastline. In May, the Marmaris Yacht Charter Show provides an opportunity to meet the yacht captains and crews. With plenty of provisions aboard you set sail in the craft of your choice and languidly explore the spectacular beauty of Southern Turkey. While in Marmaris, sample the typical Turkish cuisine in one of the marina restaurants and drink the national alcoholic beverage, raki, made from anisette, the traditional Turkish way, over ice and diluted with water. Later stroll along the brightly lit and palm - lined promenade and indulge yourself at one of the ice cream vendors enjoy energetic entertainment at a lively bar or dancing until dawn at a sophisticated disco to end a perfect day.
There are many good buys in Marmaris boutiques, colorful bazaars and markets. You can find excellent leather and suede goods, copper and brassware, jewelry and objects carved of onyx. Turkish carpets, textiles and embroidery make good handcrafted souvenirs, and the locally produced pine-scented honey called Anatolia-Rhodes-Egypt cam bali is superb. Ancient Marmaris, Physkos, was an important stage on the Anatolia-Rhodes-Egypt trade route. In the 16th century Suleyman the Magnificent had a citadel built there, the remains which can still be seen today.
Swimmers should not miss Ataturk Park, to the east of Marmaris, where a shallow beach, extending to the bay leads to safe waters. The clear sea is warm enough for swimming from early May until late September. Marmaris also has horseback riding and tennis centers for the sports enthusiast. This is one of the few places in the world where you can delight in the heady aroma the frankincense tree. Weekly ferries run between Marmaris and Venice during the summer season.
Near Marmaris, at Icmeler, the hazy mountains of the interior slope down to sandy beaches. Under blue skies, the clear sea is ideal for all types of water sports. Many find this area so irresistible that they stay longer than originally planned. And there are some excellent accommodations here, in which you can prolong your contact with nature. As you drive down from the high mountains into the village of Turunc, the scene opens out onto the spectacular blue waters beyond the natural harbor. The village itself is small and scattered around the bay, with most of the restaurants border the beach. A few bars and restaurants farther back from the water's edge offer fresh fish and superb views.
Kumlubuk, a turquoise paradise, lies on the southern side of the bay. On the northern side, above the water, stands the ancient Rhodian city of Amos. At the tip of the Bozburun Peninsula is Loryma, where the ruins of the ancient harbor and castle can only be reached by boat. Natural quiet bays and scattered islands punctuate the northern shore of the peninsula, ideal for those who want to get away from it all.
Sedir Island, in the Gulf of Gokova, is the ancient Cedrai. Its old city walls, theater and temples can be visited by driving from Marmaris north to Gelibolu Bay and then crossing by boat. This voyage also offers an unforgettable panoramic view of the mountain scenery across the bay. At the head of the gulf is the village of Gokova, whose houses seem to cascade down the mountainside of Mt. Kiran. Restaurants built over bubbling, freshwater streams that fall from the highlands create an unforgettable setting. The towering pines and cooling breezes of Gokova Park are a welcome respite from the hot sun.
The Datca Peninsula provides a natural boundary between the Aegean Sea and the Gulf of Gokova to the north, and the Mediterranean Sea and the Gulf of Hisaronu to the south. Along the 75 km from Marmaris to Datca, the road winds among trees and hills, permitting lovely views over the expanse of blue. Campers have many perfect settings to choose from, while the less adventurous can stay in one of the many comfortable holiday villages. The beautiful blue-flag Aktur beach is 25 km from Datca. In Datca white-washed buildings hung with bougainvillaea decorate the town. The marina is on the southern bay, while swimmers prefer the northern bay. Around the marina bars, cafes and a wide selection of shops keep the tourist from getting bored. Some shops remain open well into the evening. Relaxing over a pre-dinner drink and then a delicious meal in an inviting restaurant is a popular way to spend the evening hours. Of course, the local eateries offer both fresh fish and classical Turkish cuisine. With any remaining energy, take a stroll and find a disco to your liking to while away the time until the early morning hours. Ten km north of Paca, Kormen Harbor is connected to Bodrum by a daily ferry.
As you travel out of Datca, either by road or by boat, you will find unspoiled bays and golden sandy beaches.Kargi is one of the most popular. At the end of the peninsula, 38 km from Datca, stands the ancient Carian city of Knidos, described by Strabo as "a city that was built for the most beautiful of goddesses, Aphrodite, on the most beautiful of peninsulas." (Earlier in history Datca, itself was also called Knidos). The city which was famous as a center of art and culture in the 4th century B.C. had two harbors, one on the Aegean and the other on the Mediterranean. The remains of a circular temple dedicated to the goddess of love overlook the two harbors; the arcaded way was built of white marble, heart - shaped columns. The legendary Aphrodite statue by Praxiteles was one of the most beautiful sculptures of antiquity and once graced this temple.
The town of Koycegiz lies at the northern end of the lake of the same name and is joined to the Mediterranean by a natural channel. This unique environment is a nature and wildlife sanctuary. A road shaded with aromatic frankincense trees leads to the tiny village of Dalyan on the inland waterway. The maze of channels is easily explored by boat as you traverse this tranquil dream world. The restaurants which line the waterways specialize in delicious fresh fish. High on the cliff face, above the fascinating ancient harbor city of Caunos, are magnificent tombs that were carved into the rock. The Dalyan Delta, with the long, golden lztuzu sandy beach at its mouth, is a nature conservation area and a refuge for sea turtles (Caretta caretta) and blue crabs.
At Ekincik, a delightful yacht mooring, you can enjoy the breathtaking beauty of this area. Only a half hour's drive from Dalaman Airport, Sarigerme has wonderful sandy beaches, and a pleasant holiday village discreetly situated in a pine forest. The Dalaman River offers good rafting, the best time for which being from May to October.
The road to Fethiye winds up and down hills through a heavily forested region that offers occasional glimpses of the sea and an islet or two basking in total seclusion. The Gulf of Gocek and its friendly marina is one of the Mediterranean's best sailing spots. Dotted with islands and indented with many coves, its land and seascapes are irresistible. The ruins of Arymaxa, an ancient city at the southern tip of the gulf, lie at the edge of the azure waters. Opposite, on Tersane Island, stand Byzantine ruins, including those of the ancient shipyards.
At the popular resort Fethiye, 135 km southeast of Marmaris, is a major marina at the head of a beautiful bay strewn with islands. A hill crowned by the ruins of a crusader fortress built by the Knights of Rhodes overlooks the little port. Above the ancient town of Telmessos, numerous Lycian rock tombs, reproducing the facades of ancient buildings, were cut into the cliff face. The Tomb of Amyntas, which probably dates from the fourth century BC is the most remarkable.
Swimmers head for the popular Calis Beach, four kilometers west of town, or to Sovalye Island, opposite the harbor, which blazes with flowers in the spring.
The road to Belcegiz Bay takes you through mountains where cozy guest houses cater to those seeking mountain scenery. Ocakkoy is the mountain village that is a must see. Stay in one of the lovely guest houses and enjoy the numerous hiking possibilities. Hisaronu, also in the mountains, has very nice hotels.
Four km from Hisaronu, Kayakoy is a picturesque ghost town of old houses and churches. Explore the bay and the beautiful Blue Lagoon (Olu Deniz) where the calm, crystal clear water is ideal for swimming and other water sports. The Blue Lagoon is one of the best places in the world to do absolutely nothing except soak up the sun amid stunting natural surroundings. At Mt. Baba (1,969 m), you can paraglide into the lagoon. For those seeking accommodations or other facilities, Belcegiz beach is recommended. Intoxicating scenery surrounds the beach and shady park at Kidirak. On Gemiler Island (St. Nicholas' Island), Byzantine ruins he tucked among the pines.
South of Kidirak beach, Koturumsu Bay is reachable only by boat. Beyond the idyllic beach, a forest, waterfalls and a valley filled with hundreds of varieties of butterflies await. High in the mountains above Fethiye a rushing torrent cuts a narrow gorge through the mountains, creating Saklikent (Hidden City) located 44 km south of Fethiye. A cool refuge on hot summer days, Saklikent is a favorite picnic spot, with rustic restaurants serving delectable fresh trout. Yakakoy (Tlos), 36 km southeast of Fethiye, is the oldest city in the Lycian region and home of the Lycian hero Bellerophon. Visitors can see the remains of a castle, agora, necropolis, theater, Roman baths and a good view of Esen Valley. Two km east of the villages is Tlos Park, ideal for picnicking. Pinara, 49 km south of Fethiye, is another ancient mountain city ideal for hiking where visitors can see the remains of a theater, agora, rock tomb, and baths.
About 65 km from Fethiye, to the southeast, near Kink are the ruins of Xanthos, an important Lycian capital in a splendid natural setting. Letoon, nearby, was formerly an important religious center where three temples dedicated to Leto, Artemis and Apollo stood in ancient times.
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